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PICLaps

PICLaps - simply camera intervalometer.

PANASONIC Lumix, Canon, Pentax, Nikon and even more...

Component list.

  • 1 x P1 - PIC12F683-I/SN (8 pin flash-based , 8-bit microcontroller)
  • 1 x T1 - optocoupler (LTV355T); SMD; Darlington transistor; CTR@If:50%@1mA
  • 3 x R1 - resistor (HP06W2J0103T5E); SMD 1206; 510R
  • 1 x C1 - ceramic capacitor (CL31A226KQHNNNE); SMD 1206; 22uF;
  • 1 x L1 - LED (KPT-3216YD); SMD 1206
  • 1 x S1 - microswitch (DTSM-32N-B); monostable; SPST- NO
  • 1x Keystrone (KEYS3002); Ø20mm x 3.7mm
  • 1x battery (BAT-CR2032/C); 3V; Ø20 x 3,2mm;
  • 1x very nice enclosure (TEKO OVO-3/1.4); TEKO
  • 1x jack 2.5mm (AC-018); stereo plug

Additional component list - only Panasonic Lumix.

  • 1 x R2 - resistor (SMD1206-39K); SMD 1206; 39kΩ; 0,25W; ±5%
  • 1 x R3 - resistor SMD 1206; 1kΩ;
  • 1 x jack 2.5mm (JC-135); 4pin plug

I bought the plug (TME, symbol: JC-135) but it is really bad quality. It can be broken just in hands. Try to find a better plug. Finally, I used solid plug of some TV cable.

Intervalometer schematic and components.

Point H1 is Ø1.5mm hole for the enclosure pins. Here you can see the assembly OVO-3/1.4. Points B1 is a bridge (very small hole) connecting both sides of the PCB. Needed to power up the system from the battery located on the other side.

If you want to prepare PCB for Canon, Pentax (other than Panasonic Lumix) do not use the resistors R2 and R3. They are not needed. Take a look below.

Double sided PCB schematic - ready to print.

(PCB sizes: Ø34.5mm x 1mm)

Panasonic Lumix.

You can also download psd format.

Other cameras (Canon, Pentax, Nikon).

You can also download psd format.

Do not forget to flip the first diagram before printing.

PILaps Software.

Here you can download the program for the microcontroller PIC12F683. Ready to upload.

Step by step.

Open the box and look inside. Get ready for drilling. Drill OVO part no. 2 exactly where it is shown in the picture. Diameter of hole such as cable you will use. You will need a 2-core (GND, SHUTTER) cable. Look at two next pictures for sure. So it should look like. So it should look like. Cut the cable space. So it should look like. This one is a little too big :) Ø1.5mm two holes for the enclosure pins. Grind angular edges of the board. It should fit into the OVO. Take the next two small holes for the bridge. Use silver plated wires or whatever you want. Solder the wires to the plate. Solder the wires to the plate. Full list of components. Here for Canon, Pentax. For Panasonic Lumix you need two resistors more. Programmer/Debugger. You'll need to program the PIC12F863. Of course you can use another programmer. Almost ready soldered PCB (Pentax/Canon for example). I'm not a SMD master of soldering, but who cares :P Ohhh ... I almost forgot. Do not forget to program the controller before you solder :> Prepare clip for battery. So it should look like. So it should look like. Everything is ready to see if the device is working properly. After mounting the battery, the LED should start flashing. If YES, you certainly did it WELL. Congratulations. Solder the cable and close your OVO. You do not have to do it :)

A complete product you can see here.

More cameras.

I am sure that the device will work with more DSLRs. If you know how your camera triggers a photo (usually combine ground with shutter) just use an right adaptor. Take a look at camera remote release pinout list.

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